Tanzania – Follow Steffi’s footsteps (June 2023)

Posted on 24th July 2023

 

A heavy feeling comes over me as I climb into the 13 “seater” light aircraft from Auric Air connecting us at Kilimanjaro International airport to our long international flight back home. A wonderful time in Tanzania has come to an end. The 10 days on safari in one of my favourite countries in Africa have gone by too quickly!  It has been some years since I last visited and saw good friends and colleagues. Much has changed, yet much remains the same!

Tanzania is a heavily populated developing country in East Africa, situated along the Great Rift Valley. It borders Uganda to the north, Kenya to the northeast, the Indian Ocean to the east, Mozambique and Malawi to the south, Zambia to the southwest, and Rwanda, Burundi, and the Democratic Republic of the Congo to the west. Mount Kilimanjaro is in north-eastern Tanzania (5,895 metres/ 19,341 ft). Tanzania lies within the African Great Lakes region where some of the most significant hominid fossils have been discovered.  Tanzania’s population is composed of about 120 ethnic, linguistic, and religious groups.

The climate varies greatly within Tanzania. In the highlands, temperatures range between 10 and 20 °C (50 and 68 °F) during cold and hot seasons respectively. The rest of the country has temperatures rarely falling lower than 20 °C (68 °F). Tanzania contains around 20% of the species of Africa’s warm-blooded animal population, to be found mostly within its 21 National parks, reserves, conservation areas, and marine parks.

Travel and Tourism contributes over 20% of Tanzania’s economy and employs 11% of the country labour force. It is therefore understandable that the last few years, during the Pandemic, have been hard for many Tanzanians. But besides all the hardship the country faced, the spirit of the locals seems unbroken! Friendly faces and warm smiles welcomed us everywhere we went. Their open and genuine hospitality is truly touching!

 

 

My safari starts with a night to acclimatise in Arusha.  I aim to visit Lake Manyara and Tarangire National Park, Ngorongoro Crater and Serengeti National Park (the “usual suspects” for first time safari goers) on this trip!

As is common in Tanzania I hired a driver and car in Arusha (arranged some weeks beforehand) and off I went exploring the different parks and areas which make up what is known as the Northern Safari Circuit of Tanzania.

We wiggled our way through the busy traffic of Arusha, a little frontier town serving as a gateway for ambitious climbers of Mt. Kilimanjaro, the highest peak in Africa, and Safari enthusiasts!

Business of any sort is done in front of the houses, little shacks, shops, houses, and markets, of Arusha, along with smart looking businesses all lined up next to each other along a buzzing main road, creating a bustling chaos.

As one leaves the town of Arusha behind, the shacks and settlements make way to wide open fields with large herds of livestock, herded by exotic looking Maasai Tribesman, wrapped in bright red fluttering Maasai scarfs.

 

 

Our first stop was Tarangire National Park only 2hrs away from Arusha. The Park often gets overlooked by visitors enroute to the more exclusive and better known Ngorongoro Crater and Serengeti. Tarangire is famous for its many baobab trees that dominate the landscape. One clearly wonders, looking at a baobab tree, if the myth is not true that they have been turned upside down by an angered god? We only have time for a day visit, but it is definitely worth spending a couple of nights here before heading on.

We enjoy watching large elephant bulls frolicking at the river´s edge during the heat of the day along the banks of the Tarangire River, which runs through the Park like a hurried snake. We drove around for hours, watching large groups of plains game, seeing few other safari vehicles; a fact we soon would learn not to take for granted! The souvenir stalls around the main entrance are worth a stop. Some of the most gifted wood carvers in Africa, the Makonde Tribe live here. Their intricate and skilled work really stands out!

 

 

We drive further west past the lovely village of Mto wa Mbu, tucked in between Tarangire and Manyara National Park. Here is a great opportunity to indulge in Tanzania’s rich culture, perhaps visit a local school or maize farm, and haggle at the local fruit markets over some delicious local farmed fruits or veggies. There are apparently over 40 different types of bananas to be found in Tanzania. Maybe see how many you can discover here!

I had received mixed reports about Lake Manyara National Park (video link) and I was eager to see for myself what one can experience here. The park is situated between Lake Manyara and the Great Rift Valley. One of the main attractions in the park are the tree climbing lions (an unusual adaptation by these predators) and vast herds of elephants.  The guide asked us “So why do you think the lions climb trees?” and someone answers “Because they can”! We all howl with laughter…

We drive further into the park and visit the hot springs, which extract water of almost 60°C (140°F); hot enough to boil an egg! Luckily our lunch boxes for en-route always contain a boiled egg and we are not in need!

I can’t get enough of watching the young elephants frolic in the water; diving under and climbing on top of each other. Suddenly these giants seem to become weightless!

 

 

We leave the Park late in the afternoon and drive onto Karatu, where we spend the night. Karatu is a well-appointed village in the foothills of the Ngorongoro Crater. It offers loads of good accommodation options. The choice of lodges along the Crater rim is between overpriced designer lodges or mass market concrete blocks, so Karatu is usually a better option for your overnight stop.

The sight of the Ngorongoro Crater (video link) always takes my breath away; no matter how many times I have seen it…

However this morning we are greeted by a thick wall of mist at the viewing point, not even allowing us a glimpse. So in hope the Crater is still where it has always been, we drive down the steep road to the Crater floor.  The crater formed when a large volcano exploded and collapsed on itself two to three million years ago and is considered one the world’s seven Natural Wonders.  Approximately 25,000 large animals live in the crater! The clouds lift and after not too long we spot a Black Rhino in the distance, large herds of elephant, gazelle, hyena and so much more. This place is magnificent… I would love to linger, but there is so much more to see!

 

 

Our Toyota Land Cruiser crawls, swaying from left to right, slowly back up to the Crater rim, and we continue our way towards the Serengeti to the Naabi Gate. I see a sign to the Olduvai Gorge Museum along the way, one of the biggest onsite museums in Africa, located at the excavation site of Olduvai Gorge, and near the famous Laetoli Footprints site. The museum exhibits what has been said to be the earliest evidence of human ancestors and other findings from elsewhere in Africa!  We have a long way to drive to the Central Serengeti and sadly no time to stop here today.

I notice the roads are getting busier now, more safari cars, supplier trucks and ranger’s cars pass us. 50km/h is the speed limit in the park, but it feels faster. Our driver intermittently pushes his foot down on the clutch, I suspect because he is trying to make the dusty bumpy gravel road a little easier to bear for us. We moan a bit and rub our sore backsides and he meets the gesture with a smile and comments “African massage”! Kind of a treatment I would demand my money back for, I think!

We stop at the clearly marked entrance to the Serengeti and get out of the dusty Jeep to take pictures, as evidence of us having been here. Some Maasai from nearby kraals run up to our car, holding beaded necklaces and bracelets up to us, hoping for us to buy. They speak in their language, which we don’t understand. Their appearance is so different to ours! Many have tribal facial markings and their earlobes have been stretched down to their shoulders, a cultural sign for wisdom and respect!

We leave, and drive further towards the Central Serengeti, better known as Seronera! We have to stop once again at the Tanapa Park Gate (Tanzania National Parks Authority) to show the receipts of our prepaid Park and Conservation Entrance fee, as well as other paperwork, and report that we are now entering the Park. The same procedures are required when leaving the National Park. The parking area is full of safari vehicles, each one with another slogan promising the best safari trip ever! The picnic site is crowded with people from all parts of the world.

 

 

We continue our journey along the dusty gravel road and more and more animals come into sight. The Serengeti is one of the oldest ecosystems in the world, with its unique combination of weather, flora, and fauna, remaining relatively unchanged for over a million years. The Park is home to the world’s largest movement of animals, often called the “Great Migration.” More than 1.7 million wildebeest, 500,000 zebra, and 200,000 antelope make their way from the Ndutu region of the southern Serengeti northward through the whole length of the “endless plains” to Kenya’s Masai Mara. However, these numbers are sadly rapidly declining, due to issues like climate change and human wildlife conflicts! For the next few days we explore various parts of the park on a game drive and also try to follow the Great Migration, believed to have moved further north.

Predators seem to be a main attraction for visitors. Wherever we spot clusters of numerous cars lined up in the distance, we are sure there are cats to be seen. The central Serengeti has a well reserved reputation for being the “predator capital” of Africa and indeed we get rewarded with many sightings of these magnificent animals, from lion, to cheetah, to leopard, to other types of cats.

One evening on the way back to our camp as the sun starts to set, we had an unusual encounter with five tiny, seemingly abandoned, cheetah cubs. Cheetah cubs usually open their eyes between 4-11 days after birth and these babies could not have been older than about 5-6 weeks. They must have left their hiding spot, looking for mom, who was nowhere to be seen. It is not uncommon for a cheetah mother to wonder off too far in search of food and lose sight of her cubs. This usually has tragic consequences for these vulnerable babies, who can easily fall prey to predators like hyenas.

It is estimated that fewer than 8,000 African cheetahs are living in the wild today. Numbers have declined by about 50% percent in the last four decades!

The cheetah cubs were cuteness overload! Our hearts melted at the sight of them.  We had no idea what to do or how to help them or if we were even allowed to intervene. We finally decided, with a heavy heart, that nature would have to take its course – and we left the sighting. Nobody spoke a word on the way back to camp. It was on everyone’s mind. The next day we heard someone saying that these babies had been taken by hyenas! This really lowered our mood even more and didn’t seem fair at all. This is the hard reality of the wild.

Two days later while on a game drive, suddenly a crackled message was received on the car radio by our guide. Some baby lions had been seen nearby.  We rushed to the sighting and found the usual line of cars waiting in convoy. We were so overjoyed when we realised that the lion cubs turned out to be our five baby cheetahs thought killed by hyena, happily playing in the high grass with their mom, nibbling away on the remains of a recent kill.

 

 

Another special treat was waiting for us here, as we were booked on a balloon ride (video link) to experience the majesty of sunrise over the Serengeti. Something I had wanted to do forever, a bucket list wish of mine, was about to come true. We had to get up before 5am for the required pickup time from our camp, to be taken to the launching site.  Five enormous balloons the size of mega circus tents were laid out on an open field and full preparations were already under way. Through the open narrow end of the balloon envelope, called the mouth, powerful motor-driven fans blew cold air into the balloon for the initial cold inflation. The noise was incredible and exhilarating – and only got me more excited about the upcoming flight! After a short briefing we were tucked and strapped into our 16-seater basket, and floated up as the sun rose, gliding above the plains of the Serengeti. It was simply unforgettable, and super special! I was surprised how gently the balloon floated on the light morning breeze; I had expected more sudden movements or pulling… but nothing like that. Light as a feather the balloon gracefully floated up and down, gently guided by our skilful pilot, with the occasional roar of the powerful gas burners followed by breath-taking silence as we drift along soaking up the experience. We spotted a pride of lions with cubs below, hippos in pools, hyenas on their way back to their dens after a busy night out, herds of zebra and so much more! After an hour or longer we landed at our designated landing site and were treated to a tasty champagne bush breakfast. Ballooning is a must-do event when coming here I think, even though it is not super cheap.

 

 

On our last day in the Serengeti we finally caught up with the Great Migration (video link), which had started crossing the Grumeti River on their way north towards the Maasai Mara National Reserve in Kenya. It was truly a spectacle to witness, as hundreds of Wildebeest ran down into the river to drink after their long trek, pushing each other forward towards deeper waters where massive Nile crocodiles were lurking.

We left the Central Serengeti via the Western Corridor on our last day (escaping the masses of cars and people there), driving towards Ndutu. Ndutu lies at the heart of the South Serengeti and forms the northwestern part of the Ngorongoro Conservation area. The area offers superb and consistent wildlife viewing during the green season.

Our last night was spent at Ndutu Safari Lodge, the oldest photographic safari property in Tanzania; originally created by George Dove in 1967! The lodge is situated at the banks of Lake Ndutu and made the perfect end to our safari…

 

Bottom Line…

Like most African countries the rate of unemployment in Tanzania is high, and education low. Primary education is obligatory in Tanzania, but not secondary. As many families cannot afford school fees, early dropouts are often the result. If lucky, one can still find a job in the Travel and tourism industry and undergo extensive training on the job. But there are not too many dedicated training programs in place.

Tourism in Tanzania is, despite the high demand, still in its infancy compared to neighbouring countries like Kenya. Although Tanzania is catching up fast, we often found the level of service in the camps and amongst the guides not quite up to the same standard of other safari destinations in Africa. Misunderstandings due to language barriers were often one reason! But as mentioned before, whatever shortcomings we experienced anywhere, Tanzanians made up for it with unparalleled kindness, friendliness, willingness, and hospitality. 

The daily park fees in Tanzania are very high and combined with the additional cost for a driver/car/ petrol often result in high basic costs for a safari of about 200 to 250USD per person per day. This is even before you add accommodation or anything else to this equation. In a nutshell: A safari in Tanzania is not a budget holiday!

Tanzania is one of the top Safari destinations in Africa, with a rich culture, incredible landscapes and one of the best game viewing experiences Africa has to offer. Tanzania also has world class beaches! But they currently face big challenges. Tanzania needs to carefully tackle the high demand for travelling in their beautiful country, especially after the Pandemic, with the impact on their fragile and unique environment and ecosystem. A task seemingly almost impossible, and which will require strong and competent leadership at all levels…

 

 

‘Maisha Marefu’ – we will be back Tanzania!

(translates to ‘Long Life‘ and you use it to say ‘Cheers’ when having a drink or to celebrate)

 

Important Notes when travelling to Tanzania…

1. We only highlighted some of the main areas of the Northern Safari Circuit in this post.These areas are in terms of animal sighting amongst the best in Africa, but sadly also attract large crowds and are becoming very mass market, offering little exclusivity. It would not be unusual on occasion to have 30 safari vehicles around a sighting! There are options to visit private and more remote game reserves in Tanzania, if your budget and time permits.
2. The level of service in the safari camps varies greatly, but whatever is not perfect the Tanzanians make up for with their willing and friendly nature. Nothing is ever too much or a bother for them. We have to travel to Africa in general with an open mind and heart and not measure with the standards we might be used to from back home.
3. Visiting the Northern Circuit usually entails mostly game drives. Only a few camps additionally offer guided walking safaris. These camps are usually the more up market and pricey.
4. There are some incredible and very cool off-the-beaten track places in Tanzania, with multiple days hikes and loads more; like the 3 day hike between Empakaai Crater down Lake Natron, or the Usambara Mountains.
5. Safari can be tough going and tiring, so we always suggest a few relaxing days afterwards on the beach, on either Zanzibar, Pemba or Mafia Island.
6. The South of Tanzania has some virtually undiscovered and very unspoiled regions; like Nyerere National Park (Selous), Ruaha, or Mahale Mountains National Park!
7. Some islands in Tanzania offer world class diving and, depending the season, whale sharks can be encountered while snorkeling or diving!

 

East Africa video gallery link